Bordeaux 2023: Lafite Rothschild, Duhart Milon & Evangile

We don’t need an eminent Swiss psychiatrist to help us make up our minds. We love their interpretations of the vintage.

Lafite is a statuesque, imposing figure, Duhart Milon offers power and refinement, whilst the glorious Evangile is lustrous with a kaleidoscopic display of aromas and flavours. These are all beautiful, textural, individual wines which reflect their unique terroirs and expose the vagaries of the growing season. For further information about the DBR team’s analysis, please follow this link.

In challenging times, we need leadership. As a prominent First Growth, Lafite has decided to release early and at a price that will give confidence to consumers. We hope that their lead will be followed by other chateaux.

Lafite Rothschild 2023

“The finest of the first growths this year appears to be the 2023 Lafite Rothschild, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with deep and incipiently complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, lilac and violets mingled with hints of cigar wrapper and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's vibrant and refined, with a deep core of fruit, plenty of sweet structuring tannin and a compelling marriage between energy and plenitude. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot that reminds me of 2019's tannins combined with 2016's unimpeachable classicism.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, 97-99/100

Duhart Milon 2023

“The 2023 Duhart-Milon was picked September 7 to October 3 and contains 15% pressed wine, matured in 50% new oak. It has a much more backward bouquet than the Moulin, displaying well-defined yet tightly coiled graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that belie the backbone of this Pauillac. That graphite element is accentuated in the mouth and controls the classic finish that could only come from this appellation. This is excellent, but patience is required.” Neal Martin, Vinous.com, 93-95/100

L'Evangile 2023

“The 2023 L'Évangile was picked from September 4 to 28 at 42hL/ha, which is the highest for many years. Matured in 50% new oak (including 15 foudres) and 8% in amphoras (my sample only from used barrels), this has a very floral and precise bouquet with dark red fruit, blueberry, hints of blood orange and light sous-bois scents. It's very L'Evangile. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Crisp and precise, there’s fine tension toward the finish with a lingering black pepper note. This is a lovely L'Évangile that deserves five or six years in bottle. It will be worth the wait.” Neal Martin, Vinous.com, 94-96/100