Bordeaux 2023: Leoville Las Cases

We expected Las Cases to double down and excel in a vintage like 2023. However, it felt like the old boy had taken off his bowler hat and immaculately cut suit and slipped into a Zegna tracksuit. Tasting under blue skies, this felt like a relaxed, rather luxuriant style, a far cry from the reserved, introspective, classicism we’re accustomed to. We must have caught it on a particularly engaging day, as the critics are unanimous in their praise of it's classicisim and linearity. Time will tell. One thing's for certain, this is the cheapest release since the 2015 - and as such, this looks like a genuine consideration for followers of the Château.

“The 2023 Léoville Las-Cases was picked from September 9 to October 2 at 43hL/ha and matured in 80% new oak barrels. This has a very precise bouquet, and, like the Clos du Marquis, it is imbued with an attractive estuarine element—aromatics that transport the imbiber to the banks of the Gironde. The oak is neatly integrated; 80% is much more optimal than 100% would have been. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry, moderately deep and quite lively on the mid-palate. This is a more linear Las-Cases than recent vintages, conveying a sense of "seriousness" toward the almost saturnine finish. Impressive in terms of persistence, this is a worthy follow-up to the magnificent 2022, but it will demand patience.” 95-97/100 – Neal Martin, Vinous.com

“A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and only 4% Merlot, the 2023 Léoville Las Cases is one of the more serious, structured wines of the vintage, reminiscent of a modern-day version of the estate's excellent 2001. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis and plums mingled with hints of licorice, mint and creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a taut core of fruit, lively acids and plenty of fine, youthfully firm tannins. It will require and reward patience.” 94-96/100 – William Kelley, Wine Advocate