Burgundy's fame has risen ten-fold over the last few years, as have the prices of its top labels. Yet there is a lot more to the region than the most lauded villages, the likes of Vosne-Romanee, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. The Cote d'Or is a rich and very complex mosaic of vineyards, so much so that there is always something new to discover, a hidden gem that even the most ardent of Burgundy fans are yet to unearth. In a vintage like 2021, where volumes are down across the region, these wines are more important than ever.
We encourage you to explore some of the less well-known corners of the list, where quality has arguably never been higher. To help you in your quest, our buyers have put together the following list of Burgundy's unsung heroes and best kept secrets.
Giles Burke-Gaffney
Buying Director, Justerini & Brooks
Aloxe-Corton, Clos de Chapitre, 1er Cru, Follin Arbelet
Aloxe-Corton's vineyards are planted on some of the heaviest clay soils in the region, which has lead to a reputation for rather muscular, rustic wines. However, there are one or two little known pockets of limestone influence, where the wines boast a distinct finesse to add to those typical Aloxe built-to-last frameworks. One such vineyard is the Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre, nestled in the heart of the Aloxe-Corton village. Its wines are taut and stylish, with the grip and intensity to last decades, whilst offering an elegance that make them so enjoyable to drink.
Marsannay, Clos de Jeu, Chateau de Marsannay
At the far north end of Burgundy, a limestone's throw from Gevrey-Chambertin, lies the Marsannay appellation. Unfairly overlooked in favour of its more illustrious neighbour, Marsannay has some outstanding terroirs and an increasingly impressive list of top-quality producers exploiting them. Change takes time in Burgundy, but the region is very much hoping that its request for Premier Cru status for its most choice vineyards will be approved in the not too distant future. One such candidate is the Clos de Jeu, a vineyard dating back 60 years planted on hard limestone fossil soils - the wines radiate charm and finesse, bursting with silky, aromatic red fruit and mineral character.
Pommard, Clos des Epenots, 1er Cru, Chateau de Meursault
If we have noticed one major qualitative trend in Burgundy over the last five years, it has been the rise of Pommard. A mixture of global warming, improved viticultural know-how and a burgeoning pool of wine-growing talent, have conspired to produce some outstanding wines. Long before Vosne-Romanee and Chambolle-Musigny stole the limelight, Pommard was Burgundy's stand-out region. We are now being reminded as to why. The Clos des Epenots is one of the appellation's very top vineyards, its iron-rich soils produce arresting, full-bodied, zesty wines packed with hedgerow fruit character and a tell-tale hint of blood orange.
Pernand Vergelesses, Sous Frétille, 1er Cru, Remi Rollin
The cool sub-valley of Pernand-Vergelesses has benefitted from global warming more than any other part of the Côte d'Or. Ripeness levels, and therefore the complexity and intensity of its wines, are higher than ever before - and yet the wines manage to retain that bracing freshness for which they are so renowned. The Sous Frétille is a vineyard that sits atop a small hill directly next to that of the Corton Grand Cru; smaller, loftier but no less steep than its renowned neighbour, Sous Frétille is very much a mini Corton-Charlemagne - flavoursome, textured and with a sharp mineral freshness cutting through the ripe, melt-in-the-mouth fruit.
Beaune, Les Greves, 1er Cru, Genot-Boulanger
As a large and varied appellation, Beaune is something of an enigma to many. In Les Greves, though, it boasts a vineyard that can confidently lay claim to being among the greatest spots in the Côte de Beaune. Genot-Boulanger's well-exposed, free-draining plot is a prime location within this vineyard, sitting above the legendary L'Enfant Jesus; a mid-slope, south-east facing parcel planted on sandy clay and limestone soils in the 60s and 80s, this is an old vines cuvée that demonstrates the classic qualities of great Burgundy: lightness of touch, vivid intensity and a pure transparency.
Meursault, Les Boucheres, 1er Cru, Genot-Boulanger
As well located as the famous Perrières and Genevrières vineyards, which it is perched next to, but less well-known due to the small amount owners producing their own bottlings, Bouchères is a hidden gem in Meursault that yields satisfying, classic Meursaults of amplitude and character. It is a vineyard perfectly suited to the tempered, refined and taut Genot-Boulanger style resulting in luscious, powerful wines that bounce with energy and zest.
Chassagne Montrachet, Rouge, Clos St Jean, 1er Cru, Paul Pillot
There was a time Chassagne-Montrachet was far better known for its reds than its whites and there are still some terroirs here that reinforce this - the most clear-cut example being the Clos St Jean; its light iron-rich clay limestone soils produce refined and elegant wines, silkier than anything else to be found in Chassagne. These are exquisite red Burgundies similar in style to the more prestigious, and vastly more expensive, wines of Vosne-Romanée further north. One of the Côte's best kept secrets.
Maranges La Fussiere Rouge, Bachelet-Monnot
The little-known appellation of Maranges is having its fortunes reimagined, and it is Marc and Alex Bachelet who are leading the charge. Neighbouring Santenay, their excellent La Fussiere vineyard is equally adept at producing whites as reds, the latter planted in the lower sections. The limestone rich soils of this vineyard produce energetic, mineral wines that might have, in the distant past, tended to rusticity. In today’s climate, though thoughtful farming and careful winemaking, the Bachelet brother are fashioning wines of charm and purity; tannins tamed, textures polished. They invariably feature in our best value Burgundy selections and would give many a wine from a more illustrious village a run for its money.