Finesse, delicacy and great value
A region once in crisis, the granite-based hills of Beaujolais are undergoing quite a revival. Thanks to the likes of Marcel Lapierre and the young generation of natural winemakers he has inspired, combined with foreign investment that largely hails from Côte D’Or Domaines enticed by the low cost of land, Beaujolais is starting to reveal its full potential.
Juicy, crisp light-bodied but flavoursome and with a terroir transparency, these wonderful Gamays can show very clearly the myriad of styles of each cru – whether it be the mineral Cote de Brouillys, dense Morgons, complex and ageworthy Moulin a Vents or floral, soft and aromatic Fleuries. They can age rather well, too, and due to the low cost of land they are a fraction of the price of their Pinot Noir – favouring neighbours.
There are some very good natural-leaning producers out there making wine using carbonic maceration (whole bunch and whole berry fermentation that gives the wine softness and sweetness.) In isolation these wines are delicious, however for us they all too often result in a dominant wine-making style that supresses individual terroir character and differences. For this reason we tend to prefer the more traditional style winemakers such as Bernard Metrat, Laurent Martray and Jean-Paul Brun.
As a region, Beaujolais has been through the wars, but through court cases, poor harvests and minimal production the professionalism of the producers finds a way. Both internally and amongst loyal customers too, there are some real dependable favourites here.
Erroneously perceived as a relatively superfluous series of distinctions, the Beaujolais crus are actually quite varied and the differences can be rather stark. Wines from Morgon, for example, typically lend themselves well to ageing for 4-10 years before consumption, whereas Brouilly wines are best drunk young (generally no more than 3 years after bottling).
When you think of Beaujolais, you think of Gamay. Forget what you think you know and the stigma that comes with it – these are worthwhile wines that will reward and entice. Easy-drinking, fruity, finessed and delicate - excellent value too.
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