Top 2011 Boisson-Vadot
2011 is a very pretty white Burgundy vintage but if there is any domaine capable of adding cutting edge to the vintage’s charming fruitiness then it is without doubt Meursault’s Boisson-Vadot. Intense and taut or “ciselé,” as the French would say, are the words that kept cropping up in our tasting notes. These are without doubt some of 2011’s most serious and concentrated wines. Flowering was early in 2011 and pointed towards a mid-August harvest. A rainy summer started off cool and then heated up considerably from mid-August onwards, the mercury reaching 38 degrees at one stage.
These mixed conditions did their best to slow down ripening, but nonetheless the majority of growers had started picking early, by the end of August. The Boissons like tension in their wines and are often one of the earlier pickers. Poor flowering and strict grape selection have meant that the crop is certainly not a big one, however yields were, mercifully, more generous than in 2010.
The Boisson family Domaine in Meursault is a total of 8.5 hectares. These are divided up between Bernard Boisson and his two children, Pierre and Anne. The parcels of vines are primarily situated in Meursault with smaller holdings in Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, Pommard and Beaune. Although not certified organic the Domaine never use any fertiliser or pesticides and all the vines are ploughed to control weeds and to air the soil. Vinification is traditional and the harvest is done by hand.
The grapes are sorted in the vines and back at the Domaine before going into vats. The wine is aged in oak barrels between 15 and 18 months, sometimes more if the vintage demands it. New oak is used very sparingly, though there are no hard & fast rules as to percentages of new or old barrels - the vintage decides. What is clear, though, is that in no way do the Domaine want the oak to mask the character of the wine. Bottling is done at the Domaine without any filtration.
The wines, even at Bourgogne level, are incredibly intense, taut and powerful, and sit firmly on the more mineral side of the Meursault spectrum. These flinty, powerful Meursaults rank among the very top wines of the commune.