Château Canon, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2017

Tasting Note:

The Wertheimer family who own many luxury goods brands have invested time and devotion into Chateau Canon. John Kolasa spent two decades laying the foundations, Nicolas Audebert has added the Midas touch. The 2015 was widely touted as the wine of the vintage and the 2016 may prove to be even greater. So no pressure on the 2017 then... It is produced from 77% Merlot and 23% Cabernet Franc from the limestone clos above Ausone and Belair Monange. First we tasted barrel samples from some of the eight coopers utilized. The wines will be racked from one barrel to a different cooper’s barrel several times during elevage. From cask the wines were so vibrant and floral with notes of eucalyptus, pure blueberries and griotte. The assemblage sample by contrast was brooding and reflective, but no less impressive. Notes of smoke, cool minerals, loganberry and rosemary slowly unfurl from the glass. On the palate there is restrained power, silky smooth crème de mûre fruit coats the mouth, with hints of wild damsons and salted plums. There is a real sense of tension, salinity and freshness, which leave you yearning for another glass. This is perhaps not as seductive as the spellbinding 2015 and 2016, but it is another terrific effort from Nicolas and his team.