Tasting Note:
Paul Pontallier, the charming and highly informative Director of Château Margaux, believes this is their most concentrated wine in 40 or 50 years. Before our trip, we had concerns about the quality of Merlots in the southern Médoc, but Margaux has produced a good crop of exceptional quality, from their clay-based parcels. This unquestionably adds to the charm and sophistication of his 2003, but this wine really rests on very fine Cabernets: Pontallier is clear that “you cannot make great wine with Merlot”. This wine deserves a brochure of its own and was a strong candidate for our favourite of the whole week. It begins with a beautiful deep garnet colour, glinting purple in the glass; on the nose it is very fine and hugely complex, with cassis, black and red berries, cherries and sloes. On the palate it is fresh and clean, delivering layer upon layer of dark flavour, with tannins that are apparent throughout but which firm up a little on the finish, as if to tie things off nicely at the end. The typical Margaux femininity and charm are there, with plenty of finesse, as is the weight of the vintage, and the whole package makes for a wonderfully complete Margaux. Two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot.