This captures so much about St Julien, with its balance, tobacco leaf, smoked earth, melted tannins, blond tobacco, blackberries and mint. It's delicious, from a time when the yields would have been high, and in a year that struggled to reach full maturity, and yet has a balanced charm that shows why this appellation delivers drinkability even when it misses concentration. The smoke is far more evident when you come back to it after a few hours of tasting other wines, suggest not giving it too long in carafe before drinking. Christian Hostein cellar master, 50% new oak for ageing.

(a blend of 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 6% petit verdot) Ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, leather, game and dark chocolate. Pliant and smooth, with a rather fine-grained texture for a young wine from this chateau. Doesn't possess the definition or lift of the best 2004 St. Juliens, but has a solid core of chocolatey-ripe dark fruits and finishes with ripe, horizontal tannins. Margaux