L'If, St Emilion, 2018

Tasting Note:

Alas, L'If is a tiny production, just 7000 bottles of the wonderful 2018 are in the cellar. 50% of the vineyard has been replanted, much of which is not yet used in the blend. Jacques explained that a soft hand was required. Skins were naturally very thick so he did no pigeage. 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% new oak, the L'If 2018 is the most accomplished effort we have tasted to date. There is a noticeable shift both here and at Le Pin towards a more serious, structured style. The exuberance and outrageously aromatic style of old has been parked, the 2017s and 2018s are more classical and arguably better placed for aging. The fruit is detailed and fine with super intensity and energy. Seductive raspberries and loganberries wash over the palate in waves of gloriously velvety fruit. We were impressed by the deftness of tannins - they have been beautifully handled and frame the fruit perfectly. A very impressive L'If.