Domaine des Lambrays is an historic estate that in 2019 saw one of the biggest turning points in its 650 years. This small Grand Cru of 8.66 hectares boasts a complex, varied topography and terroir, and, with vines averaging 90 years old (the majority planted between 1898 and 1935), has long offered the potential to produce one of the Côte’s great wines. The purchase of the Domaine by LVMH in 2014 was a major turning point, the second was without doubt Jacques Devauges’ arrival at the estate in March 2019. After glittering stints at Domaine de l’Arlot and Clos de Tart, Jacques embarked on a project to turn the Clos’ potential into reality. His sole aim was to achieve as pure an expression as possible of this great terroir’s qualities. The first, and largest, step was undertaking a detailed study of the terroir – a huge piece of work that revealed 12 different parcels, all of which were picked and vinified separately in 2019 (a first for the estate). The second major change has been conversion to organic viticulture, and, from 2020, biodynamics. Apart from investing in gravity-fed cellars and bespoke smaller fermentation vats, there is no “wizadry” in the cellars as such, merely a system designed to get the best out of the grapes. Precision in the vineyard and an invisible hand in the cellar are the best ways to summarise Jacques’s approach. Fermentation is mostly with whole bunches, up to 80% but varying according to vintage, whiles ageing, again depending on the year, would ordinarily be for 18 months in 60% new oak barriques.