Meursault, Les Meix Chavaux, 2017

  Genot Boulanger

Meursault, Les Meix Chavaux

A distinct stoniness to the nose translates into an equally savoury palate. Fresh herbs and crushed rocks vie with rapier-like lemon and lime skin fruit with notes of citrus essential oil. Cool, tense and refined. With its north-east exposure and poor, sandy and stony soils this is not
your typical Meursault. Taut and mineral with an intensity coming from the limestone terroir and old vines, planted in 1950, this is a live-wire
Meursault of great class. Aged in 20% new oak for 12 months followed by six months in tank.

Contains Sulphites.

About Genot Boulanger

It is not every day we come across a 22ha domaine in Burgundy we have never encountered before that are producing wines of outstanding quality. So we were taken aback during our visit to Genot-Boulanger in Spring 2018, a tasting which proved startling for its consistent brilliance for both white and red wines. The Domaine began its history as the life-long dream of two Parisian pharmacists, Charles-Henri Génot and his wife Marie Boulanger, that was realised when they moved to Meursault and purchased vineyards in Mercurey in 1974. They began to gradually build up the Domaine with further acquisitions in the Côte d'Or including Meursault, Volnay and Chassagne. In 1995 the Domaine expanded again into the Côte de Nuits, Corton and Aloxe-Corton Clos du Chapitre. By 1998 Francois Delaby had inherited 22 prime hectares of vineyard area in Burgundy. He was joined by daughter Aude and son in law Guillaume Lavollée who, in turn, took over the running of the Domaine in 2008, becoming the fourth family generation of the estate's history. Aude and Guillaume were clear on their mission from the off - to produce wines that express the complexity and finesse of their great Burgundian terroirs - recognising the quality of the vineyard to be the most important factor to get right. So they began their tenure by concentrating on viticulture and the health of the soil, starting conversion to organic farming - a process that ended with full certification in 2018. Winemaking follows a non-interventionist approach. For reds whole bunches are included during fermentation to a small degree when appropriate, or equally berries are completely de-stalked depending on the vintage. Fermentations are with indigenous yeasts and extractions are gentle. The wines are aged with 20% new oak barrels for 12 months followed by 6 months ageing in tank. The whites undergo the same process, the only difference being no sulphur is added to them until after malolactic fermentation. Rather like Aude and Guillaume themselves the wines are precise, composed and elegant. These are beautiful, noble burgundies that effortlessly give plenty of pleasure and can be considered among the Côte's greats.

Appellation: Meursault

Meursault is the largest commune in the Côte de Beaune (spanning over 370ha) producing predominantly white wines. There are no Grand Cru vineyards, but its Premier Crus can equal the best white wines in the Côte de Beaune. The finest vineyards are Les Perrières, Les Genevrières, and Les Charmes. In addition Meursault has a plethora of other named vineyards that aren't Premier Cru but nonetheless show their own distinct characteristics and can offer excellent value, some of the best are Chevalières, Tessons, Clos de la Barre, Luchets, Narvaux, and Tillets. These are lower-lying than the Premiers Crus but are much more interesting than the villages wines of Puligny where the water table is higher. The low water-table is also the reason why some of the region's deepest cellars can be found in Meursault. The commune is big so the style and quality are varied. Generally speaking Meursault is known for its full body and, nutty, buttery character. The best examples have enough vitality and acidity to balance out the 'fat.'

Grape Type: Chardonnay

Chardonnay is one of the most widely-grown and versatile of all white grape varieties. As a relatively neutral grape, it offers a near transparent map of winemaking style, climate and terroir. It is the ideal grape variety for Burgundy, where it serves to mirror the complex nuances of the myriad of terroirs found in this hallowed land. Chardonnay produces a variety of wines from the minerally and unoaked styles found in Chablis, the fatter nuttier examples in Meursault, to the tropical fruit-driven versions found in the New World. It is also the major grape variety in Champagne, where it produces lively floral wines, namely in the Côte de Blancs. It can be found throughout Europe and the New World thanks to its versatility. As a non-aromatic variety, it has an affinity with oak, whether new or used, French or American.