Château Clos Fourtet, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion,

The skill and class of this estate has come through more strongly after ageing, and this is a single point upscore. Very much on the savoury sudued side at this point, but there is beautiful finesse and a kick of oyster shell salinity. Austere still, but the floral aromatics give extra depths. A reasonable yield of 40hl/h (normal for the property) as its location again protected from frost. Clay-limestone soils. 50% new oak, 2% amphoras, saignée (for added concentration) on 20% of the vats.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2021 Clos Fourtet needs a lot of swirling to unlock notes of black cherry preserves, ripe blueberries, and violets, followed by hints of cracked black pepper and star anise. Medium-bodied, the palate is tightly wound with loads of delicate black fruit and spicy nuances, framed by ripe, rounded tannins, finishing long and fragrant. Yields were 34 hl/ha and the blend is 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc. It is aging in French oak barriques, 60% new.

The 2021 Clos Fourtet has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, incense and touches of marmalade in the background. It seems to gain a little intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid entry, fine depth and acidity. It’s quite dense and just a little blocky toward the finish, where I would like to see more complexity develop with time. It's a more backward Saint-Émilion, but it will reward those with the sense to cellar it several years.