Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, 2ème Cru Classé, Pauillac,

So much depth to the fruit, this is still pulsating even as it knocks on 40 years old. Last tasted July 2018, and two years on it continues to deliver at the top of its game, but surely now is the time to drink to be sure of getting the full experience. You can expect soft tertiary notes of truffle and cedar but the fruit remains caressing and welcoming, with caramel-edged sweet black cherry and blackberry, fleshy and exotic. One to share, and to give thanks for. May-Eliane de Lencquesaing had been at Pichon for four years at this point and she oversaw a relatively generous 40hl/h yield. Harvest 16-30 September.

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a benchmark vintage for the estate, although I have not encountered a perfect bottle for around 20 years, when I believe the wine was at its height. Still, this is a lovely Pauillac with plush black and blue fruit on the nose, like before, almost Margaux-like in terms of its crushed violet component. The palate is ripe and rich on the entry thanks to the contribution of the Merlot, yet there is such panache and swagger that you instantly fall for its charm. Melted tar and pencil shavings on the very persistent finish. Just a very very gorgeous wine. Tasted at the 1982 Dinner at Hatched.