Château Troplong Mondot, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion,

A hot vintage, and the spices here are a little more exotic than the 1988, clear turmeric and cumin on the first nose. Still full of intensity, a brilliant wine with impact and power, and one that would start conversations around a dinner table. A touch of earthy brett as it opens, but it is part of a myriad of flavours, textures, aromatics - far more evident on the nose than in the mouth, coming across as black truffle, earth and undergrowth. Thoroughly enjoyable. Claude Valette owner, with his daughter Christine manager and Jean-Pierre Taleyson cellar master. Michel Rolland consultant. This was also the year that a sorting table to installed in the cellar for the first time during harvest, with 50% new oak used for ageing.

The 1989 Troplong-Mondot has an earthy, strawberry pastille and leather bouquet with hints of clove; attractive if just a little tired. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and notes of red fruit, black tea, leather and tobacco, lightly spiced and gentle, but missing real body and grip toward the finish. Drink soon. Tasted from an ex-cellar magnum at the property.