Chablis, La Forest, 1er Cru,

Pale, bright yellow. Very closed but pure aromas of lemon zest and oil and wet stone. Wonderfully tactile, intense and alive, offering sharply chiseled flavors of citrus fruits, crushed rock and salty minerality and terrific lemony lift. This very deep but relatively austere 2015 calls for a good four or five years of aging but should ultimately be one of the elite premier crus of its vintage. (Dauvissat also opened a bottle of the 2009 Chablis La Forest, which combined wound-up aromas of lemon, crushed and minerals with some sexy biscuit and truffle suggestions of evolution. On the palate, the wine is still incredibly young, boasting terrific lemony energy and cut and showing just the first hints of empyreumatic and oyster shell character. This wine is neither high in alcohol nor in acidity yet it's classic and powerful and should broaden out dramatically in bottle over the next ten years.)