Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Auslese, Goldkap, 2011

  JJ Prüm

Even more concentrated than Wehlener Sonnenuhr this year, tightly-wound, botrytis richness is more evident here than on the other wines, intense and profound dried apricot and honeyed stone fruit balanced by a juicy ruby grapefruit freshness. Haunting length of flavour and expansive on the finish, this will need time in bottle to unravel. The Himmelreich of Graach is a first rate vineyard, the soils are a little deeper and richer than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr and the site is little less sun-blanched. The wines as a result are often full of soft fruit and youthful charm with typically more acidity but less minerality than those of the SonnenuhrHarvest was at the beginning of October after an early start to the growing season, the grapes hang time was therefore long, this has resutled in what Katharina Prum considers to be a very fine and charming vintage similar to 2007 and 2009 but more savoury and mineral.

Contains Sulphites.

About JJ Prüm

Manfred Prüm runs one of the Mosel’s, if not the whole of Germany’s, most revered and respected Estates. It is also amongst the most enigmatic as no-one has yet made it down to his mysterious cellars. Manfred is certainly one of the world’s more eccentric wine producers and a tasting in his drawing room with him is always enjoyable and entertaining. In the Sonnenuhr of Wehlen he owns a portion of one of the Mittel Mosel’s top vineyards. Its steep south-facing dark slate slopes tend to result in deeply flavoured, mineral yet rich and smoky wines. In addition, he manipulates some plots in the next door Himmelreich of Graacher which produces engaging wines with fresh acidities that are slightly softer and earlier maturing. These are unashamedly classic, exciting and long-lived wines produced predominantly in stainless tanks to avoid the addition of too much sulphur, though a small proportion of wooden casks are retained, however, depending on the vintage. They are bottled later than most Mosel and often take a few years in bottle before showing the true character, but patience will be rewarded!

Appellation: Mosel

The vineyards along the steep sided banks of the Mosel river, part of the region known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, are known for being some of the hardest vineyards in the world to work (due to their steepness) and home to some of the finest white wines in the world. Riesling is king in this cool region that follows the twists and turns of the River Mosel providing myriad different terroirs and vineyard aspects.