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The Zillikens are famed for their library and love to open old bottles. The ’11 Rausch Spätlese is showing the first signs of tertiary development; a touch of cep here and truffle there with a hint of vanilla pod consistent with a warmer year. Nut oils and bitter orange marmalade with the smoke of a grilled peach. There is no botrytis at play here, just fully ripe grapes. A slight firmness in the mid-palate suggests that there’s no hurry to drink it.
The life of a Saar Riesling grower is not an easy one. Possibly one of the coldest and most marginal corners of Germany, the Saar can produce some of the world’s great white wine in hot sunny years such as 1990. However, these are usually outnumbered by cold wet years resulting in over astringent and unripe wines. There are a small band of growers though who have a distinct advantage over the rest in the land that they own. A handful of Saar vineyards are steep enough and exposed enough to ensure a decent level of grape ripening even in poor years. Hanno Zilliken is fortunate enough to have sizeable holdings in Saarburg’s great vineyard, the steep south-facing Rausch. He exploits these slate based vines to the maximum through careful pruning and hand selection. When the wine is pressed, it gently descends by gravity into the oak casks lying in Hanno’s dark damp cellars. The wines are prime examples of Saar Riesling, being mouthwateringly taut, mineral and sophisticated.
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