New release: Ossian 2012
A brilliant new set of wines from Ossian.
Ossian’s un-grafted Verdejo vines are almost certainly some of the oldest on the planet. It is satisfying to think that while Giacomo Justerini was establishing Justerini & Brooks, a plot of Verdejo was being hand planted a few hundred miles south on a plot of sandy slate soils just outside the Spanish town of Nieve. You have to wonder if either endeavour thought it would still be bearing fruit 260 years hence…
Today, current custodian Ismael Gozolo is the 5th generation of his family to have been entrusted with the care of these ancient vines. He’s a passionate man, quietly spoken but forceful and full of conviction for the direction in which he is propelling the Ossian estate. A recent vertical, presented at our Spanish tasting, showed just what a fascinating project this is. With six vintages on show, from 2007 to 2012, it was clear to see that Ossian’s old vines in Ismael’s hands have a propensity for ageing and a stability that sets them entirely apart from their peers in Rueda. The latest vintage was delicious young - highly mineral with a compelling freshness of fruit. It marked stage one in a very gradual evolution back to the 2007, where all the minerality and old vine material had come alive morphing into smoky, flinty, highly complex flavours that maintained a great freshness and poise.
We are delighted today to be able to offer Ossian 2012, Capitel 2012 and Quintaluna 2013. For everyday drinking, Quintaluna, now with added old vine material, shows the fresh youthful appeal of sub 100 year old Verdejo vines grown on sandy soils. Capitel, from a plot of the very oldest vines grown exclusively on a single plot of sandy slate soils, is a white for the next generation. Hugely concentrated, backward and regal, it currently offers up just a glimpse of its future – but a glimpse is enough. This is a magnificent wine, though sadly allocations are very limited. Ossian itself, comes from 38 tiny sandy plots of very old vines. A veritable shape shifter, it offers up all the attributes of a perfect wine for cellaring. Enjoyable from day one, but very definitely a wine that will repay long term ageing, it is gaining an international reputation, quite rightly, as one of Spain’s most impressive current releases.