Philipponnat Clos des Goisses '04 & '05
When Richard Juhlin compiled his list of the 50 best late disgorged Champagnes for ‘The World of Fine Wine’ a staggering 10 places were filled by Philipponnat Clos des Goisses. At number two in the chart was the `55 with 99 points. Clos des Goisses also took 6th with 98 points, 11th, 14th, 17th (all 97 points) 27th, 28th (96) 41st, 42nd (95) and 50th (94) – quite respectable for a little known house! But, amongst aficionados, Philipponnat is a very big name with a formidable reputation for aging into some of the most complex and aristocratic wines of the region.
Described as “one of the true icons of Champagne” and as “consistently one of the world's foremost wines”, the Clos des Goisses vineyard is probably as unique as the wine it yields. Purchased in 1935 and overlooking the river Marne, its dizzying incline of between 30 and 45 degrees makes it one of the steepest in the region, helping create a completely individual microclimate that can be up to three degrees warmer than the rest of Champagne. This means that even in cool vintages, the wines have atypical power, depth and texture, coupled to a wonderfully pure and intense mineral backbone. In short, these are exhilarating and age-worthy wines of the very highest order.
2004 was a truly exceptional year for this hallowed wine and the very first vintage to be made in Philipponnat’s new hi-tech winery. Antonio Galloni was completely taken by it, calling it a “towering, utterly majestic wine” that “captivates all of the senses with its stunning grace and pure pedigree”. He goes on to say it is “one of the very best vintages of this iconic Champagne I remember tasting”, and concludes “The 2004 Clos des Goisses is a must-have Champagne. It's as simple as that.”
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