François’ pursuit of making wine naturally without any kind of human manipulation in the cellars can result in some of the most striking and honest examples of Sauvignon Blanc in the world that are true to nature, vintage and terroir. Allowing a natural balance to be achieved in his wine can often, unfortunately, go against the INAO grain. In 2002 François’ wines fermented above the INAO’s maximum 13% and had to be labelled Vin de Table. The same applied to François’ 2003s, which had too much residual sugar in them to be labelled Sancerre, as was the case in 1998.
On the opposite banks of the Loire from Pouilly sits Sancerre. Whilst much of what is grown in Sancerre can be of variable quality, there are enough good growers to ensure it is also home to some of the greatest of France's Sauvignon Blancs. Cotat, Crochet, Pinard all domonstrate this, with the last two also producing some particularly fine and haunting red sancerre from Pinot Noir.
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