Madame Gasqueton is notoriously difficult to arrange an appointment with. Either she is the most popular lady in Bordeaux or she likes to make us sweat... This year, despite our every attempts, we were told `NON`. But being resourceful chaps and chapesses we requested a fresh sample to taste in privacy. Calon Segur is always one of the most charming, most seductive and most elegant wines from the northern Medoc. It somehow combines great power and presence with femininity and sophistication. Made from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2009 Calon Segur is the most powerful and concentrated effort we have tasted from this estate in many years, possibly ever. There are notes of crème de cassis, pencil shavings, cut flowers, spice and a hint cedar. The palate is packed with dense fruit, blackcurrants, hedgerow fruit and crème de mure. For all its power, it hasn’t lost any of its grace. The tannins are silky smooth and the result is a picture of harmony and balance. A wonderful effort.
This is the most northerly of all the wines classified in 1855. The estate is steeped in history, once forming part of the Segur estate which incorporated Phelan Segur as well as Lafite, Latour and Mouton. The Marquis de Segur famously declared that ‘I make my wine at Lafite and Latour but my heart is in Calon’. This presumably explains the proliferation of hearts at the estate and on the label.
More recently, following her husband’s death in 1995, Denise Capbern Gasqueton has managed the estate. Her wines are classical, true to their terroir and have found much admiration from collectors and drinkers. Madame Capbern Gasqueton passed away in 2011 and the estate has been sold to the French Insurance company Suravenir. A new chapter starts...
A part of St-Estèphe is separated from Pauillac's Lafite only by a stream.Though St-Estèphe contains some gravel, it is largely renowned for the high clay content of its soils compared with other vineyards on the left bank. These wetter cooler soils favour the Merlot, hence the relatively large proportion of plantings compared neighbouring communes, though Cabernet Sauvignon dominates. The cool soils means the grapes are later ripeing and tend to have high acidities, archetypal St Estèphe is a strong-willed, tannic structured wine to be laid down. The stars of St-Estèphe are Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Segur, whilst Haut Marbuzet and Lafon Rochet have been producing excellent value wines over the last few years.