Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot have produced a powerful and masculine Calon Segur 2014. Some will lament the change of style here - there has clearly been a decision to make a more modern and more impressive wine, and not all of the team were convinced that this is the right choice - it has certainly lost some of the Calon charm that we loved. That said, it has a mighty impressive colour and some wonderful Cabernet aromas of violets, graphite and Licoreux de Mures. 14% of press wine is in the blend and this allied to more extracted style gives this Calon quite forceful tannins. In a different context, one would say this is wonderful with cool, decadent fruit, yet a restraint and class, however, knowing it is a Calon, it feels a bit ubiquitous. Impressive and sad in equal measure!
This is the most northerly of all the wines classified in 1855. The estate is steeped in history, once forming part of the Segur estate which incorporated Phelan Segur as well as Lafite, Latour and Mouton. The Marquis de Segur famously declared that ‘I make my wine at Lafite and Latour but my heart is in Calon’. This presumably explains the proliferation of hearts at the estate and on the label.
More recently, following her husband’s death in 1995, Denise Capbern Gasqueton has managed the estate. Her wines are classical, true to their terroir and have found much admiration from collectors and drinkers. Madame Capbern Gasqueton passed away in 2011 and the estate has been sold to the French Insurance company Suravenir. A new chapter starts...
A part of St-Estèphe is separated from Pauillac's Lafite only by a stream.Though St-Estèphe contains some gravel, it is largely renowned for the high clay content of its soils compared with other vineyards on the left bank. These wetter cooler soils favour the Merlot, hence the relatively large proportion of plantings compared neighbouring communes, though Cabernet Sauvignon dominates. The cool soils means the grapes are later ripeing and tend to have high acidities, archetypal St Estèphe is a strong-willed, tannic structured wine to be laid down. The stars of St-Estèphe are Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Segur, whilst Haut Marbuzet and Lafon Rochet have been producing excellent value wines over the last few years.