Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot produce one of the most sought after wines in the Medoc. It is always stylish, well priced, and there simply isn't enough to go round. Denise Gasqueton's decision to separate Capbern vineyard in 2006, coupled with the low density planting means that there is a supply issue... Anyone lucky enough to get the 2015 will be delighted. Produced from 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, it is aromatically classic: cut flowers, cassis, liquorice and crushed rocks. There is a slightly degradation to the fruit which is rather charming. The palate is elegantly proportioned with pure crème de mûre fruit and hints of cranberry. One cannot claim that this is a profound wine; it is classy, pretty, refined; a Calon with finesse and a delicate tannic profile.
This is the most northerly of all the wines classified in 1855. The estate is steeped in history, once forming part of the Segur estate which incorporated Phelan Segur as well as Lafite, Latour and Mouton. The Marquis de Segur famously declared that ‘I make my wine at Lafite and Latour but my heart is in Calon’. This presumably explains the proliferation of hearts at the estate and on the label.
More recently, following her husband’s death in 1995, Denise Capbern Gasqueton has managed the estate. Her wines are classical, true to their terroir and have found much admiration from collectors and drinkers. Madame Capbern Gasqueton passed away in 2011 and the estate has been sold to the French Insurance company Suravenir. A new chapter starts...
A part of St-Estèphe is separated from Pauillac's Lafite only by a stream.Though St-Estèphe contains some gravel, it is largely renowned for the high clay content of its soils compared with other vineyards on the left bank. These wetter cooler soils favour the Merlot, hence the relatively large proportion of plantings compared neighbouring communes, though Cabernet Sauvignon dominates. The cool soils means the grapes are later ripeing and tend to have high acidities, archetypal St Estèphe is a strong-willed, tannic structured wine to be laid down. The stars of St-Estèphe are Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Segur, whilst Haut Marbuzet and Lafon Rochet have been producing excellent value wines over the last few years.