We are huge admirers of Lafite and Duhart Milon. This is always one of the highlights of our primeur tastings, so we were slightly puzzled by the 2015s; Charles Chevalier's last vintage as technical director. Normally the wines have a gravitas, athleticism and muscularity, but these wines seem relatively delicate and floral with none of that brooding power. Produced from 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot, the 2015 Duhart Milon is floral and elegant. It is wonderfully lithe with some svelte red berry fruit. Harmonious and perfumed but needs to fill out.
Under the ownership of Domaines Barons de Rothschild, Duhart Milon has become one of the most sought after wines from Bordeaux, both by its association with Chateau Lafite and in its own right as one of the biggest over-achievers from Pauillac. Produced from 76 hectares of vineyards to the west of Chateau Lafite on the Milon hillside, with plantings are 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Since the mid 90s, this estate has not put a foot wrong and now with the 2009 receiving a remarkable 97 points from Robert Parker, this estate is entering a new era in its history.
The Cabernet Sauvignon domanates the appellation, in fact some might justifiably call Pauillac the most classical expression there is of Cabernet based Claret. It is sandwiched between St-Julien to the south and St-Estèphe to the north, a stone’s throw from the Gironde Estuary. The excellent drainage of the intensely gravely soils are the key to quality, producing some of the world’s most long-lived wines. The First Growths of Latour, Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild are found here, while other great Châteaux include Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande, Pontet Canet, Lynch-Bages and Grand-Puy-Lacoste.