A tight-knit wine, crisp flavours of citrus, fresh crunchy greengage, stone fruit and limstone. Wonderfully tense and alive, such clarity and precision of flavour. Beautifully posied and with a vivacious acidty. Excellent Corton-Charlemagne.
Bonneau du Martray own the highest proportion of vines on the hill of Corton, and since the early 1990s has been a benchmark Burgundian Domaine. Heavy pruning and green harvesting mean that yields are astonishingly low and, much to the amazement of neighbours, they are usually the first to harvest by several days. After elevage in barriques, these tantalisingly fine, mineral wines undergo the very lightest of fi ltrations before being bottled.
After two tiny vintages, Bonneau du Martray could have been forgiven for thinking mother nature was finally returning some of what she had taken over the previous two years. Up until the end of June 2014 the season had looked so promising, culminating in a uniform and quick flowering that promised a decent-sized crop. However on the 28th June the dreaded hail struck, wiping out nearly half of the crop in two minutes. Fortunately this was too early to affect quality and although quantities are once again heavily reduced they are, at least, up on the past two vintages. A very fine September insured the domaine could harvest beautifully ripe, concentrated grapes, with minimal sorting required, between the 16th and 21st. It is clear we have a great white vintage on our hands here, and Bonneau du Martray have produced the goods, making a white of impeccable balance, verve and style.
A white wine Grand Cru appellation, Corton-Charlemagne stretches in a narrow band around the top of the Corton hill from Ladoix-Serrigny, through Aloxe-Corton to Pernand-Vergelesses. Marginally higher cooler and with whiter spoils than the red wine vineyards of Corton, Corton Charlemagne is ideally suited to the production of white wine. The stony soils here impart a very specific flinty and mineral character displayed by most Corton Charlemagne. The body, style and ripeness of the wine can vary according to where the vineyards are situated - the east-facing vines facing Ladoix tend to produce the most mineral wines,whereas the due south Aloxe-facing side result in the richest, ripest wines. Corton-Charlemagne is a large and underrated Grand Cru vineyard, so a good example can offer the best value drinking of any Grand Cru white Burgundy.