Powerful, fine-grained and gripping. With every year that has gone by since Bruno took this parcel back, the wine has become denser and more complex. Deep mineral flavours are overlaid by ripe but lively fruit notes of bilberry, blueberry and bramble with a kirsch sweetness and cherry freshness; tinges of rock salt on the long, echoing finish. Very Impressive. From two parcels, one of which is next to Clos de Tart, giving quite a generous, rich and voluptuous style of Bonnes-Mares.
Bruno Clair started his own domaine in 1979 with small holdings in Marsannay, Fixin, Morey and Savigny Dominode. Alongside this sat his family's Clair-Dau estate, one of the great Burgundian domaines, however following the death of his grandfather Joseph Clair family disaggreements sadly lead to its dismantling in 1985. The following year, to add to his own small domaine, Bruno was entrusted with the vineyards of his parents, brothers and sisters which included those of Clos de Bèze, Cazetiers, Clos St-Jacques, Vosne-Romanée, Clos du Fonteny and Chambolle-Musigny.
Bruno Clair’s wings are spread widely over the Côte d’Or covering nine appellations in total. Bruno, first and foremost, is a vigneron and, with the help of winemaker Philippe Brun, produces some of Burgundy’s purest examples, adopting an approach that involves back-breaking vineyard work and minimal intervention winemaking, using a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques for the long slow ageing process. New oak, though used, is kept to a minimum - rarely going above 40% even for the Grands Crus. The estate is renowned, in particular, for its excellent value Marsannays, stunning Gevreys and old vines Savigny Cuvées. Though not always a fan of whole bunch, Bruno will, from time to time, use them in certain vintages to aide more gentle extractions. These are high-toned, vivid red Burgundies of great purity.
A fabulous Grand Cru vineyard of 15 hectares situated predominantly in the commune of Chambolle-Musigny, with a tiny 1.5 ha overlapping into Morey-St-Denis. The wines are typically sturdy, mineral and muscular - Burgundies of great stature that are built to last. The anomaly would be wines that come from the Morey St Denis side bordering Clos de Tart, here they are powerful but considerably more floral, fruity and elegant than other Bonnes Mares, Bruno Clair's is an exquisite example. Ownership accross the whole vineyard area is spread over more than 30 proprietors, the largest being Domaine Comte de Vogüé. There are many fine producers of Bonnes Mares up and down the Côte de Nuits, the most notable based in Chambolle-Musigny itself are Mugnier, Roumier and Groffier.