White Morey-St-Denis is not something you see very often, and what a shame on the basis of this wine. Barrel fermented in part new oak, this is opulent, voluptuous but exuberant too, there is a unique and complex earthiness here to balance the racy lime skin fruit and more exotic notes of peach and nectarine, butter, nut and acacia.
Bruno Clair started his own domaine in 1979 with small holdings in Marsannay, Fixin, Morey and Savigny Dominode. Alongside this sat his family's Clair-Dau estate, one of the great Burgundian domaines, however following the death of his grandfather Joseph Clair family disaggreements sadly lead to its dismantling in 1985. The following year, to add to his own small domaine, Bruno was entrusted with the vineyards of his parents, brothers and sisters which included those of Clos de Bèze, Cazetiers, Clos St-Jacques, Vosne-Romanée, Clos du Fonteny and Chambolle-Musigny.
Bruno Clair’s wings are spread widely over the Côte d’Or covering nine appellations in total. Bruno, first and foremost, is a vigneron and, with the help of winemaker Philippe Brun, produces some of Burgundy’s purest examples, adopting an approach that involves back-breaking vineyard work and minimal intervention winemaking, using a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques for the long slow ageing process. New oak, though used, is kept to a minimum - rarely going above 40% even for the Grands Crus. The estate is renowned, in particular, for its excellent value Marsannays, stunning Gevreys and old vines Savigny Cuvées. Though not always a fan of whole bunch, Bruno will, from time to time, use them in certain vintages to aide more gentle extractions. These are high-toned, vivid red Burgundies of great purity.
A commune in the Côte de Nuits district of Burgundy capable of producing excellent quality red wine, which is typically described as being a halfway house between its neighbours - the richer Gevrey-Chambertin and the lighter Chambolle-Musigny. There are four Grand Cru vineyards, from north to south: Clos de la Roche 16.9 ha, Clos St-Denis 6.6 ha, Clos des Lambrays 8.8 ha and the monopole Clos de Tart 7.5 ha, plus a small strip of Bonnes Mares overlapping from Chambolle Musigny. There are some good premier cru vineyards, among the best known include Les Ruchots, Clos de la Bussière (monopole of Georges Roumier), Les Millandes, Clos des Ormes, and Les Monts Luisants. The commune is also capable of producing excellent quality whites, but they are very rarely seen. Bruno Clair's En La Rue de Vergy is one example, another is Domaine Ponsot who produces a white from Chardonnay blended with a proportion of Pinot Blanc that had mutated from Pinot Noir vines.