Stunning. It is rare to taste a Clos de Vougeot that is so slick and svelte; this is rich but not remotely heavy, really sensual, gorgeous flavours of plum, cherry, dark berries, plum liqueur and damson, immense length of flavour; luxurious, but there is composure here too. Impeccably balanced.
Denis Mortet's death in the early part of 2006 was a tragedy that shook the wine world. He was able to make the 2005s and fortunately his talented son Arnaud was waiting in the wings to take over. Denis was already leaning towards making a more gentle style of Burgundy in 2006 and Arnaud seems to have even more whole-heartedly adopted this philosophy, moving closer to the wines of great uncle, Charles Rousseau. During fermantation, extraction is very light and much less new oak (no more than 40%) is employed during elevage. A domaine with enormous potential.
One of the most famous and largest Grands Crus in burgundy the walled Clos de Vougeot was created by Cistercian monks between the 12th and early 14th centuries. The monks cleared, planted and amalgamated vineyard plots as and when they acquired them, eventually completing the final 50 ha walled vineyard by 1336. The Cistercians maintained ownership until the French Revolution, when all clerical estates were dispossessed. Clos de Vougeot was sold on to Julien-Jules Ouvrard in 1818, the year before he bought Romanée-Conti, and remained in single ownership until 1889. Since then ownership has fragmented so that today there are over 80 proprietors. The sheer size of the vineyard area means quality can be variable, particularly considering the bottom part of the vineyard reaches right down to the low-lying route national. However at its best Clos de Vougeot fully deserves its Grand Cru status, a wine different to any of the other Grands Crus, a broad, mouthfilling dense example of red burgundy that almost verges on the heavy but the greatest examples have a defintion,balance and finesse to add to this overwhelming power.