The jewel in the crown of Domaine du Comte Liger Belair. A 0.84-hectare monopole situated just above La Romanée Conti, the soil structure is complex and the vine age averages 50 years. The wines are typically harmonious and haunting, often reserved and with hidden power in their youth, they blossom with bottle age. The 2009 is spellbinding, certainly the most flattering in its youth I have tasted but with the requisite power to suggest this could quite possibly be the best yet. Incredible intensity and length of flavour yet so amenable, open and enchanting, ripe flavours of griotte, cherry blossom, damson and sloe, suave and sumptuous to touch, yet with a lifting tension and freshness that allows the fruit to resonate on the enormous finish.
The young Louis Michel Vicomte Liger-Belair is typical of the increasing crop of fledgling growers who are talented, intelligent and enthusiastic enough to take on the responsibility of bottling their own wines, nurturing them from vineyard to bottle. Until the 2000 vintage, the Liger Belair family’s superb set of well-situated Vosne-Romanée vineyards have been exclusively marketed by Maison Bouchard. However, Louis-Michel has begun to take back plots of land bit by bit and has started producing outstanding wines. La Romanée, is the jewel in the Liger Belair crown. The smallest appellation in France and a family "monopole" siutuated just above Romanée Conti. Louis-Michel's aim is to make pure, intense terroir-driven wines by respecting his vineyards and their enviroment. Pesticides are not used and other chemical treatments are carried out only when necessary, rather than systematically. Successful experiments have started with horse ploughing some vineyards and their soils have already started to reap the benefits. The wines undergo a relatively short maceration in favour of the common trend of over-extraction, which can often result in rather brutal, atypi ical wines. This, together with a careful selection of new barrels that don’t stamp their mark on the wine too much, enhances the purity and finesse of his Vosne-Romanées. These are intense, chic and gently-extracted wines that betray a haunting elegance. One of Burgundy's great new stars. Louis Michel liger-Belair continues to expand the Domaine through purchases of the top vineyards of the Côtes de Nuits, the latest being the Fabulous Clos des Grandes Vignes Premier Cru of Nuits St Georges.
La Romanée's tiny 0.84ha, under half the size of its neighbour La Romanée-Conti, make it the smallest Appellation Controlée in France. A monopoly of the Liger Belair family since the 1830s, La Romanée is just above La Romanée-Conti and therefore has a slightly steeper slope and shallower soil. Since 2002 the wine has been made by Vicomte Louis Michel Liger-Belair who heads up the Domaine du Comte Liger Belair estate, turning La Romanée into one of the truely great Burgundies it always had the potential to be. Though closed and reserved in its youth, the wine habitually displays an elegance and haunting brilliance, and after a minimum of 7-10 year's bottle age blossoms into one of the very best red wines in Burgundy, if not the world. Approximately 300 cases are made each year.