Less unctuous and large-framed than Combettes. A very Puligny Grand Cru, very fine, focused and pretty. Fresh and lithe; long silky citrus fruit with hints of fresh-cut flower. Staggeringly graceful and stylish. This is the domaine’s oldest vineyard, planted in 1940 and its smallest production.
Etienne Sauzet’s son-in-law, Gérard Boudot, makes the wine at this benchmark Burgundian Domaine and has been more recently assisted by talented winemaker Benoit Riffault, Gerard's son-in-law. A tasting with Gérard and Benoit is not just enjoyable but highly educational – each session is a virtual masterclass in terroir. Indeed, their knowledge of Puligny’s different vineyards is second to none. they resist the temptation to interfere with the wines too much after fermentation, and employs on average 30% new oak every year. The Grand Crus are, of course, impressive; even right down to Villages and Bourgogne level the wines display the finesse and grace of truly great Puligny.
One of the smallest white Grands Crus, all 3.69 ha of Bienevnues-Bâtard-Montrachet lie in the commune of Puligny-Montrachet, situated in the north-east corner of Bâtard-Montrachet. The wines are more delicate than those of Chevalier or Bâtard, lacking the minerality of the former and the muscle of the latter. Bievenues is nevertheless justifiably a Grand Cru in its own right, the best examples are fine, generously-textured, fragrant and rich with great length of flavour.