Compact, concentrated and enormously long. There are several layers here that need time to unwind. The mark of a great Grand Cru is here, there is finesse to all of the power. Incredibly intense yet there is a measured quality. This gives more every time you revisit. Extraordinarily long flavours of flowers, honeysuckle, citrus, butter and mirabelle with a racy acidity. Sublime. From the Chassagne side of the vineyard so technically this should be a ‘Le’ Montrachet although this is not how it is marked on the label. Only four barrels were made.
Etienne Sauzet’s son-in-law, Gérard Boudot, makes the wine at this benchmark Burgundian Domaine and has been more recently assisted by talented winemaker Benoit Riffault, Gerard's son-in-law. A tasting with Gérard and Benoit is not just enjoyable but highly educational – each session is a virtual masterclass in terroir. Indeed, their knowledge of Puligny’s different vineyards is second to none. they resist the temptation to interfere with the wines too much after fermentation, and employs on average 30% new oak every year. The Grand Crus are, of course, impressive; even right down to Villages and Bourgogne level the wines display the finesse and grace of truly great Puligny.
Le Montrachet is the most famous and sought-after Grand Cru white Burgundy, the title of which the villages of Chassagne and Puligny use as a suffix to their names. The vineyard spans 8 ha accross both the Puligny and Chassagne communes. Its poor limestone soils and south east-exposure, which ensures the vines are sunblanched from sunrise to sunset, result in ripe, full-bodied and often unforgettable wines. A true Le Montrachet has a depth of flavour and an almost haunting length unmatched by any other Grand Cru. It is a sophisticated wine of many layers that should be savoured and appreciated slowly.
The principal exponents of Le Montrachet are Joseph Drouhin, Remoissenet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Bouchard Père et Fils, Comtes Lafon, Prieur, Sauzet, Leflaive, Ramonet, Colin, and Amiot-Bonfils. The largest parcels belong to the Marquis de Laguiche, whose wine is made by Joseph Drouhin, and Baron Thénard, whose wine is made by Remoissenet.