We tasted this after an exceptional Musigny, expecting to have to dramatically adapt our minds and palates to give the wine a fair chance. The fact it tasted so well and so easily is huge credit to the wine. Great length, depth, ripeness of fruit with an earthiness and mineral complexity; warm, spicy, yet luminous, Autumnal flavours with notes of bramble, mulberry, cherry and fruit liqueur. Robust, but generous and well proportioned. Freddy Mugnier took back the Clos de la Marechale when the lease to Faiveley expired, and 2004 was the first vintage bottled up under the Mugnier label.
Created in 1863, this a family estate run from the Château de Chambolle-Musigny. This was initially a 4-hectare Chambolle domaine but since Frédéric took back the family’s old Nuits St-Georges Monopole, Clos de la Maréchale, from Faiveley in 2004, the Domaine has increased to 13 hectares. The aim is to produce wines that are each representative of their respective terroir and vintage, while at the same time having their individual character, wines of harmony and sincerity. This is achieved by eliminating weed-killers and industrial fertilisers in the vineyard; neither of these have been used for 10 years, whilst in the cellars all processes that traumatise the wine, over extraction, for example, or excessive woodiness, are limited to a minimum. To allow each terroir to express itself, the wine making is excatly the same for all of the wines. These are sensual, stylish Burgundies of great finesse.
A town in the northern part of the Côte d'Or that gave its name to the Côte de Nuits. Sitting on the southern edge of the Côte de Nuits, the town is the mini commercial hub of this part of the Côte d'Or, though much less significantly so than the Côte d'Or's capital, Beaune. Many négociants are based here and the town, like Beaune, also runs its own charity auction, the Hospices de Nuits, but on a much smaller scale.
The appellation Nuits-St-Georges lies both sides of the town, incorporating the vineyards of neighbouring Prémeaux-Prissey to the south. Typically Nuits-St-Georges are powerful, mineral, muscular and long-lived wines, however there is a distinct, widely accepted difference between the wines on the south side and those further north adjoinging Vosne-Romanée where the wines are silkier and more elegant, rather like those of its neighbour. There is more clay in the soil of the Prémeaux vineyards, making wines of less finesse and more prominent tannins.
Nuits boasts 27 Premier Cru vineyards but no Grands Crus, perhaps because at the time of the classifications in 1930 the town's leading vigneron, Henri Gouges, who was tasked to help classify the vineyards, was too concerned of being seen to favour vineyards in which he owned parcels. However, if the crown was to go to one Les St-Georges, on the south side of Nuits, would be it. Also particularly fine in the southern Nuits-St-Georges sector are Les Cailles and Les Vaucrains, both adjacent to Les St-Georges, while Aux Murgers and Aux Boudots on the Vosne-Romanée side and Les Argillières, Clos l'Arlot, and Clos de la Maréchale in Prémeaux can make great wine.
Small quantities of very rare white wine are made, too, from the Chardonnay grape, as in the Clos l'Arlot, and also from the Pinot Blanc grape in Gouges' Premier Cru Les Perrières. The town is home to a surprisingly small handful of well-reputed producers, namely Henri Gouges, Robert Chevillon, Domaine de l'Arlot, Patrice Rion, and Chauvenet, whilst there are many growers in neighbouring Vosne-Romanée who make outstanding examples of Nuits St Georges., and in Chambolle-Musigny, Freddy Mugnier is responsible for the great revival in fortunes of the spectacular Clos de la Maréchale vineyard.