A flagship for Domaine Leflaive and their biggest holding at 4.5 hectares, beautifully poised and stony, with notes of gunflint and smoke bolstering the fine citrus and butter character. As usual this is the most generous of the premier crus, but it is not without elegance. The acidity, like so many of this range, is beautifully ripe, present without being intrusive.
There is no doubt that Anne-Claude’s wines are going from strength to strength. The bio-dynamic revolution that she started in 1990 seems to have really got into its stride. Her opinion is that it takes about eight years for the effects of this complicated process to be seen, and she confirmed our beliefs that the acidity of the wines was getting better each year. These whites rate among the best Burgundy has to offer. The wines are typically barrel-fermented and aged for several months followed by at least 6 months in steel tank prior to bottling.
A village in the Côte de Beaune between Chassagne and Meursault producing very fine white wine and small amounts of less interesting red. Within the Puligny commune are two Grand Cru vineyards in their entirety, Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, and two which are shared with neighbouring Chassagne: Le Montrachet itself and Bâtard-Montrachet. In addition there are a number of excellent Premier Cru vineyards that are also capable of making some of Burgundy's finest white wines - at the same elevation as Bâtard-Montrachet lie Les Pucelles and Les Combettes, which is adjacent to Meursault-Perrières. A little higher up the slope, at the same elevation as Le Montrachet, lie Les Demoiselles, Le Cailleret, Les Folatières (including Clos de la Garenne), and Champ Canet. Part of Les Demoiselles is classified as Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet but a very small slice remains as premier cru, being regarded, along with Le Cailleret, as the finest Puligny Premier Cru vineyard. Further up the slope, where the terrain becomes stonier are Le Champ Gain, La Truffière, Chalumeaux, and the vineyards attached to the hamlet of blagny, which are designated as Puligny-Montrachet premier cru for white wines, and Blagny premier cru for reds.
A characteristic of the Puligny-Montrachet commune is the high water table, this means there are few individual village vineyards worthy of note, the best village wines will usually be a result of a blend. This also means that the cellars are rarely that deep. The wines of Puligny have a very distinctive style, very fine, taut and typically mineral, much less fat and rich than a Meursault and more elegance than a Chassagne. The top Puligny Domaines are Sauzet, Leflaive and Carillon.