Extroverted aromas of ripe peaches and wild strawberries, as gloriously sunny and opulent as this is, it is never excessive or decadent. The is a stylish Pinot red fruit quality and mineral freshness that keeps the fleshy, layered, exotic fruit in balance. The flavours are rich, long and so well-defined. A remarkable wine. Disgorged August 2012. 2003 was a tiny vintage, only 580 cases were produced instead of the usual 1600. Owned entirely by Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses is an exceptional vineyard that is steep, with a gradient of 30 to 45 degrees, and due south facing. A typical blend would be 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Appriximately 30-40% of the wine is fermented in used oak barrels and is then aged for a minimum of 8 years sur lie in bottle.
The arrival of Charles Philipponnat in 2000 appears to have resulted in a turn in Champagne Philliponnat’s fortunes. Not only does their flagship wine, Clos de Goisses, continue to get rave reviews, and rightly so as this is widely acknowledge as one of THE great single vineyards in Champagne, but also the quality and consistency of the rest of their range has never been higher. In total the estate comprises 17 ha of which Clos des Goisses is 5.5ha, however only a part of this is actually used for the single vineyard bottling. With vineyards in the outstanding Premiers and Grands Crus communes of Ay and Mareuil sur Ay, Pinot Noir is king and represents two thirds of total plantations. The house has a solera-type system in place for the reserve wine (which accounts for 20% of the blends) and the bare minimum that any of the cuvees age sur lie is 3 years.
40% of the wine is fermented in barrels that range from 1 to 5 years old, the rest is vinifed in steel tanks. Their sun-blanched vineyards ensure that fruit is harvested ripe and as such there is no malolactic fermentation carried out to keep vitality in the wines. The top two wines are also characterised by low dosage, between 4-5 g/l residual sugar. These are ageworthy champagnes of structure, heady fruit and freshness.
Champagne is the world's original and most famous region for the production of sparkling wine. A range of styles are produced from the Non-Vintage, through Rose, Vintage and more recently a host of prestige, Vintage luxury cuvees. The three permitted grape varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.