The first of August’s Spatburgunders, showing a touch of noticeable oak, despite it being almost 40% new. Spice on the palate, and bright red berry fruit, not opulent but lithe and nimble and precise. Sweet cherry, loganberry and redcurrant and a touch of confit red fruit on the finish. There is a little extra ripeness in Max, but also more depth. You can taste the Hollenberg slate at the end. More spicy and sappy than previous vintages with less obvious oak influence.
Tasting Kesseler's Spatburgunders it is not hard to see why he is considered by many to be one of the very top Pinot Noir producers in the whole of Germany. The slate soils of the Assmannshauser Hollenberg vineyard, from where all his Pinot Noir comes from, are said to have been planted up to 1000 years ago, provide extremely good acidities, and are practially phylloxera resistant. Fermentation and ageing of the Pinots is carried out the Burgundian way and the resulting wines do not fail to impress; they are stylish, moreish and extremely pure expressions of Pinot Noir, regardless of context.
August has also swiftly gained a reputation for world class Riesling. In his own words “ I am a Mosel Fan, I like lightness and drinkability in the wines." The style of the wines are something of a halfway house between Mosel and Rheingau Rieslings, they retain great lightness of touch to go with their innate power. August’s approach is different to that many growers in this part of the Rheingau: The warmer sites around Rudesheim tend to be reserved for Grand Cru Dry wines, while the fruity sweeter wines mostly originate from the cooler terroirs around Lorch.
7,700 acres along the northern side of the Rhine between Wiesbaden and Rüdesheim where the Riesling produces classic and substantial wines.