Of the two Goldkapsuls the Haags produce, the Fuder 12 is built for the long haul, initially reserved but slowly revealing a very pure complex botrytis character on the nose, with a sleek yet dancing shape in the mouth, all luscious fruit backlit by acidity. The complex slate notes come through on the finish, almost obscured by the complex yet tightly wound ripe apricot and honeyed peach notes. For such an intense, powerful wine, this long and lifted Goldkapsul represents near perfect harmony.
Wilhelm Haag is characterised not only by his humour, friendliness and bone-crushing handshake but also by his passion for wine – highlighted by his still unwaivering 20 year long stint as chairman of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer VDP. There is no doubt he is in the top tier of quality German wine production. He manipulates the exceptional stony grey/blue slate vineyard of the Juffer in Brauneberg, the finest part of this being a large parcel surrounding the sun dial (Sonnenuhr). Depending on the vintage, he employs a varying mixture of wooden fuders and temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks, the former helping complexity and finesse, the latter preserving freshness and intensity. These are some of the most elegant, pure and enticing wines in Germany. One of Wilhelm's sons, Oliver, is now over-seeing production at the estate
The vineyards along the steep sided banks of the Mosel river, part of the region known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, are known for being some of the hardest vineyards in the world to work (due to their steepness) and home to some of the finest white wines in the world. Riesling is king in this cool region that follows the twists and turns of the River Mosel providing myriad different terroirs and vineyard aspects.