Owing to the lack of botrytis, there are no numbered Auslese at Karthauserhof in 2012. A dry clean red slate character dominates the nose. On the palate there is plenty of fine mineral extract, a slightly different fruit character to the Spätlese with yellow fruits and stone fruits. What is lovely is the freshness and delicacy with which the lacy network of fruit is delivered. An auslese the Germans would describe as ‘filigree’.
Christoph Tyrell, who owns and runs the estate, exclusively exploits the Karthauserhofberg, one of the Ruwer's great vineyards. Situated in Eitelsbach, the estate dates back to the time of Carthusian monks and thanks to the dedication and hardwork of the Tyrells since purchasing the estate in the 1980s, is now one of Germany's most highly regarded. The wines are intense, slatey and boast the poise and raciness found in the wines of the Mittel Mosel but perhaps in a slightly broader, earthier style. Christoph ferments the wines in stainless steel which he believes slows down fermentation and results in wines with cleaner and clearer flavours.
The Ruwer is a mere stream leading into the meandering Mosel, but a mere stream flanked by steep slopes of red and blue slate and riesling vines. The coolness of the area means that all but the most quality conscious growers can achieve ripeness year in year out, but those that do are able to fashion some of the most delicate examples of Riesling to be found.