Thomas’ vineyard manager Phillip told us that this Goldcap was produced from perhaps 50% botrytis, the rest golden berries, only from the best parcels, and only from early picked botrytised grapes that were not fully dried but still contained juice. As such this is a truly dancing Goldcap, supremely fresh and pretty with notes of limes, salt, fresh apricot, honeysuckle and no dried raisined fruit character at all. Great clarity, really gorgeously fruity and leaving a lasting impression of almost weightless concentration and harmoniousness.
This Estate is one of the new stars of the Mosel that in Thomas Haag (son of Wilhelm at Fritz Haag), has one of Germany’s brightest up and coming winemakers. His prime plots of land are in the top due south-facing Niederberg Helden vineyard of Lieser. Though just a few hundred metres from his father’s Brauneberg vineyards, the heavy thicker set grey/blue slate of the Helden vineyard produces heavier wines that sometimes require more initial bottle bottle age before showing their true colours. Rigorous work in the vineyard and microscopic attention to detail in his cellars, guarantee a consistent production of good wines in poor years and outstanding wines in great years. In fact, Thomas can regularly claim to have the Mosel’s lowest yields. Since 2004, Thomas has been exploiting some vines in the famous Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr vineyard, given to him by his father Wilhelm Haag of the Fritz Haag estate.
The vineyards along the steep sided banks of the Mosel river, part of the region known as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, are known for being some of the hardest vineyards in the world to work (due to their steepness) and home to some of the finest white wines in the world. Riesling is king in this cool region that follows the twists and turns of the River Mosel providing myriad different terroirs and vineyard aspects.