Texturally this is immediately keener than the Kabinett, and just a touch more grip and edge, as wonderful ripe apple flavours combine with tangerine and salt, complex minerals and a smattering of delicate Grunhaus’ herbs. Very elegant, very long, finishing on crisp but ripe fruit flavours. Complex, grown up Spätlese. Superb.
This estate is centred on a former monastic Manor House at the foot of the Maximin Grünhaus hill close to a narrow tributary of the Mosel, the Ruwer. This towering hill is responsible for world famous wines of Carl von Schubert whose sensible attitude to vineyard management, careful selection and yield restriction result in classic examples of Ruwer style wines that are at bold, racy and mineral. Three of the region’s top vineyards are all situated on this hill. The Herrenberg occupies most of this,producing taut, mineral wines, whilst the other two comprise Bruderberg and Abstberg. In the monastic period the former provided the brothers’ tipple whilst the venerable, opulent Abstberg provided the extravagant imbibing requirements of the Abbotts.
The Ruwer is a mere stream leading into the meandering Mosel, but a mere stream flanked by steep slopes of red and blue slate and riesling vines. The coolness of the area means that all but the most quality conscious growers can achieve ripeness year in year out, but those that do are able to fashion some of the most delicate examples of Riesling to be found.