Châteauneuf du Pape, 2003

  Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

Picked at 15.2º, but very little sign of this alcohol on an ample and generous palate that is brimming with deliciously fresh berry fruit, blackthorn and sweet black cherry notes, harnessed by a creamy but close-knit tannic structure. A wine of tremendous finesse and opulence.

Contains Sulphites.

About Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

The Domaine takes its name from a tower built in 1793 by Claude Chappe (the inventor of the optical telegraph system) on the plateau near Bédarrides. The Domaine, owned by the Brunier family, consists of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and old Clairette vines planted in a small area named La Crau. The Bruniers produce very refined, beautifully measured Chateauneuf du Pape, the result of a harmonious marriage of traditional and modern techniques. Grapes are de-stalked except for their old Grenache vines, the wines are vinified in and aged in cuve for ten months, followed by a further 12 months in 50-70 hl oak "foudres." Eventually bottling takes place, without filtration, after a total of 22 months. This Domaine is a yardstick for modern era of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Appellation: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, literally the Pope's new castle, (referring to move of the papal court to Avignon the the 1300s) is a large appellation in the Southern Rhône and is considered the birth place of the Appellation Contrôlee system. In 1923 Baron Le Roy of Ch Fortia had successfully established a strict set of rules for the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, including delimiting an area for wine production and setting a minimum alcoholic strength of 12.5%. Reds and whites are produced, but the former is the far bigger of the two. Both colours produce rich, full-bodied heady wines rarely below 13.5 - 14% alcohol, distinctly southern and warm in character. The reds can vary from the hot, stewed or underipe to the rich, powerful, complex and tannic. The red wines can be aged for anything between 5 - 20 years depending on the quality of the individual wine. The sweetness and headiness of red Châteauneuf-du-Papes comes from thre Grenache grape, it makes wines of sweet fruit, high alcohol and light colour. This is the dominant variety. There are increasing amounts of Châteauneuf-du-Papes which are Grenache only. However the classic and most common version is a blend of up to 13 varieties, the main players being Grenache, Syrah (which lends colour complexity and finesse) and Mourvèdre (which also lends colour, complexity, tannic backbone and acidity). The other varieties include the decreasing Cinsault, Counoise - highly thought of for its acidity- and a number of white grapes that can also be blended into the red wines aswell as being used for makings whites, the most important of these are Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, the excellent Clairette and Roussanne.

The vineyard area extends over more than 3000 ha, the chief communes being Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself, Bédarrides, Courthézon, Orange, and Sorgues. The soils differ throughout the appellation from the classic large "Galet" stones which radiate heat to the low-trained old goblet vines, to varying degrees of clay, limestone and sand (the last of these can produce very sensual, silky wines the most famous of example of which would be Rayas.) Winemaking techniques vary from the traditional, all or part of the stalks included in the winemaking, fermentation and ageing in large old wooden foudres, to the more modern de-stalking, tank fermentation and new oak barriques maturation, or a blend of the two. The appellation is big therefore there are plenty of underperformers, however there is also, fortunately, an increasingly large selection of top class producers, including: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Beaucastel, Clos des Papes, Domaine de Pegaü, Ch Rayas, Pierre Usseglio, Jean-Paul Versino, Vieux Donjon and Domaine de la Janasse. The best White Châteauneuf-du-Pape usually seems to have a high proportion of Clairette in it, though there is also an excellent single varietal Roussanne made by Beaucastel, the wines are powerful complex but are low in acidity and should usually be drunk in the first three years after the vintage.