The 2014 contains less Grenache than usual (55%) with Mourvedre being the beneficiary which is up to 35% of the blend, so very dominant. There is also 5% Syrah and 5% other varieties including Vacarese and Counoise. A light Clos des Papes at 14.4% alcohol, and all the more beautiful for it. Burgundian, elegant red berry and Victoria plum flavours, floral and spicy - the freshness and peppery quality of the Mourvedre shines through with a lovely offsetting summer berry sweetness, ample enough but not dense. Nervy but less so than the 2008 vintage, for example, and with that tell-tale Clos des Pape’s silkiness. This will be an early drinker, although Vincent tends to advise that you leave his wines for at least six years before approaching them, but certainly has the intensity and balance to age well.
Forward-thinking Burgundy fanatic Vincent Avril has turned Clos des Papes into one of the most highly regarded estates in the appellation. Encompassing 35ha of vines spread accross 24 different parcels, making wine here is not without its complications! Vincent achieves such high standards thanks to a meticulous approach to making wine, adopting practices including severe pruning, de budding, organic viticulture, severe harvest selections, and gentle winemaking. Vincent puts all of his energies in making just the one red cuvee, the result is a beautifully balanced, very intense but not at all heavy Chateauneuf du Pape of the highest quality. Grapes are harvested when ripe at tiny average yields, rarely more than 25hl/ha, and upon reception into the gravity-orientated winery are lightly crushed before a 3 week maceration and fermentation. The wines are then reared for 12 months in 50hl oak foudres. The final blend usually comprises 65% Grenache 20% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah with the remainder made up of the less known varieties of Chateauneuf.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, literally the Pope's new castle, (referring to move of the papal court to Avignon the the 1300s) is a large appellation in the Southern Rhône and is considered the birth place of the Appellation Contrôlee system. In 1923 Baron Le Roy of Ch Fortia had successfully established a strict set of rules for the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, including delimiting an area for wine production and setting a minimum alcoholic strength of 12.5%. Reds and whites are produced, but the former is the far bigger of the two. Both colours produce rich, full-bodied heady wines rarely below 13.5 - 14% alcohol, distinctly southern and warm in character. The reds can vary from the hot, stewed or underipe to the rich, powerful, complex and tannic. The red wines can be aged for anything between 5 - 20 years depending on the quality of the individual wine. The sweetness and headiness of red Châteauneuf-du-Papes comes from thre Grenache grape, it makes wines of sweet fruit, high alcohol and light colour. This is the dominant variety. There are increasing amounts of Châteauneuf-du-Papes which are Grenache only. However the classic and most common version is a blend of up to 13 varieties, the main players being Grenache, Syrah (which lends colour complexity and finesse) and Mourvèdre (which also lends colour, complexity, tannic backbone and acidity). The other varieties include the decreasing Cinsault, Counoise - highly thought of for its acidity- and a number of white grapes that can also be blended into the red wines aswell as being used for makings whites, the most important of these are Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, the excellent Clairette and Roussanne.
The vineyard area extends over more than 3000 ha, the chief communes being Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself, Bédarrides, Courthézon, Orange, and Sorgues. The soils differ throughout the appellation from the classic large "Galet" stones which radiate heat to the low-trained old goblet vines, to varying degrees of clay, limestone and sand (the last of these can produce very sensual, silky wines the most famous of example of which would be Rayas.) Winemaking techniques vary from the traditional, all or part of the stalks included in the winemaking, fermentation and ageing in large old wooden foudres, to the more modern de-stalking, tank fermentation and new oak barriques maturation, or a blend of the two. The appellation is big therefore there are plenty of underperformers, however there is also, fortunately, an increasingly large selection of top class producers, including: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Beaucastel, Clos des Papes, Domaine de Pegaü, Ch Rayas, Pierre Usseglio, Jean-Paul Versino, Vieux Donjon and Domaine de la Janasse. The best White Châteauneuf-du-Pape usually seems to have a high proportion of Clairette in it, though there is also an excellent single varietal Roussanne made by Beaucastel, the wines are powerful complex but are low in acidity and should usually be drunk in the first three years after the vintage.