This is a great Ossian from the lovely 2010 vintage that in 2015 is just starting to pick up some of the more complex nuances that gentle bottle ageing brings. Salty yet richly textured, the main vein here is one of minerality, the gift that very old (100-200 year old) vines so often imparts, but there are also fine nuanced notes of peach, lemon balm and beeswax. Very good indeed and an excellent, if vaguely off the wall, option for Burgundy lovers looking to stray from the hallowed Cote.
Charming, passionate vigneron Ismael Gozolo is the current custodian of a set of very special vines that have been in his family for generations. Ossian's vineyards and winery are located in the village of Nieva, in the province of Segovia. The sole aim here is to produce the greatest white wine in Spain, using Burgundian techniques, including barrel fermentation and batonnage. The soil around Nieva is very different to that of the rest of Rueda, being very sandy. For this reason the 160 year old Verdejo vines have been protected from phylloxera and are therefore un-grafted. Predominantly French oak is used for maturing the wine, a mixture of old and a little new, cultivation is completely organic and the winemaking involves 100% wild yeast fermentation. The result is a wine of huge personality, ripe fruit, balanced with extreme finesse and old vine minerality that ages beautifully. Also in the range is the stunning value Quintaluna, now with even more old vine material in the blend, and Capitel, produced from a single plot of exceedingly old slate and sand grown pre-phylloxeric vines. Bottled unfiltered this is undoubtedly one of Spain's very finest white wines.