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2017 Grosse Gewächs: Germany’s grandest dry wines
26 September 2018

There was a time not all that long ago that the grandest of German dry wines, the Grosses Gewächs, were primarily appreciated by the local market and a very few niche customers here in the UK. This is changing. Those in on the secret may shudder to hear it, but the list of customers for the best German dry wines is growing, and fast. It is not hard to see why. They are capable of exceptionally longevity, betray vivid terroir definition and are ridiculously well priced for the quality. They provide electric excitement when young, but mature into wines of complex crystalline flavours with age. They can be broad and expansive but also delicate and focussed. And they tend to hover at the 12.5% abv level. A recently poured magnum of Halenberg 2010 from Emrich-Schönleber was viscerally exciting; buzzing with energy, its fruit shot through with deep slate flavours. It was irresistible now, but appeared to have decades of life ahead of it.    Read More

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