2019 Bordeaux Round Up
02 July 2020
2019 is a remarkable vintage, released under extraordinary conditions. For years we’ve been told that sending cask samples was impossible, but when needs must it turns out barrel samples travel pretty well… We’ve tasted dozens of 2019s from our kitchens and gardens and we can confirm that this is a wonderful vintage, with beautiful, generous, stylish wines from top to bottom. There’s a balance, poise and energy that makes these striking, yet approachable and ever so moreish. Neal Martin shares our assessment, “there are instances where the 2019 vintage does surpass everything I have tasted at this unfinished stage”.
We’ve selected our favourite wines that we’ve tasted, all arguably the best examples ever produced at these famous châteaux. It may not be foremost in people’s minds to re-stock the cellar during these turbulent times, however, Bordeaux has a history of presenting opportunities at the most inopportune times. Think back to the release of the 1982s and 1990s – hardly times of economic boom, but customers who bought these have never regretted their purchases. Read More
Our roundup starts in St Estèphe with Phelan Segur (£186.50/6), not a wine we usually champion, but the 2019 follows the superb 2018 and proves it was no fluke. This is an exquisite, serious, purple fruited Phelan, which suggests it has a long and distinguished future ahead. The critics are equally effusive, Neal Martin, Antonio Galloni and Lisa Perrotti-Brown all award 93-95 points and James Suckling goes even further with 95-96 points.
Into Pauillac and onto more familiar territory. Xavier Borie has witnessed many wonderful vintages of Grand Puy Lacoste. 2019 has to be right up there with the very best, a soaring wine with true Pauillac purity and class, at the same time classical, yet voluptuous and rather sexy – it’s a wine that has it all. At £270 per six, this is ‘super second’ quality at a fraction of the price. “Classy and full of breeding - quintessential Pauillac. 95-97/100” from Neal Martin.
St Julian is blessed with so many great estates it’s difficult to select just one. We were hugely impressed by Talbot (£210/6), Croix de Beaucaillou (£169/6) and Gloria (£150.60/6). If you’re looking for something even grander, we still have stocks of Beychevelle (£330/6), Léoville Barton (£324/6) and Léoville Las Cases (£873/6).
Brane Cantenac (£250/6) is on fine form, regularly topping the tables at Southwold. As expected, their 2019 is another fragrant, silky, understated beauty. This is all grace and charm, the lavishly textured fruit is in perfect harmony with the beautifully crafted tannins – much like the GPL, it has some natural 2019 flair but retains a sense of poise and precision.
Our pick from the Medoc is the quite brilliant Cantemerle (£213.60/12). It has produced the most exquisite and most serious wine we can recall tasting from this Fifth Growth Chateau. Fragrant, gravelly cassis and briar at its core, this is a grand and impressive wine that is sure to impress drinkers for many decades.
Pessac Léognan is an embarrassment of riches. Haut Bailly (£420/6) and Smith Haut Lafitte (£406/6) are the best examples we’ve ever tasted. They seem to have shared some of their DNA. Haut Bailly is more voluptuous and polished and Smith Haut Lafitte has a leafy classicism we wouldn’t normally expect to see. In short, both wines are outstanding. Olivier Bernard’s Domaine de Chevalier (£247.50/6) is also an exquisite example. A deeply mineral and complex wine, it’s a serious, brooding, cellar-worthy choice.
Most of the big names from the Right Bank have sold out, however there are two outstanding values that are must buys for discerning collectors. This was to be the last vintage for the legendary vigneron, Denis Durantou, and he signed off in style. His 2019s are ravishing, and our pick is the superb Montlandrie. The Cabernet clones here provide the most wonderfully vivid, transparent fruit and gorgeous fragrance. At £79/6, it’s a bargain. Our other choice is the voluptuous Laroque (£210/12). This St Emilion property came to our attention last year, and the 2019 is even better. It receives big scores from all the major critics including a 94-95 points from James Suckling.
To see all 2019 Bordeaux availability, please follow the links to our website. If you would like further information or advice, please contact finewine@justerinis.com