Fresh from the Rhône last week, I can happily report the place is in rude health. The North, in particular, has become a bustling hub of activity in recent years. A generation of exciting, young wine-making talent is beginning to make the most out of their incredible patrimony. The terrain is rugged and unforgiving but the sheer vineyards, the poor granitic and schistous soils and the wealth of old vines can make for some brilliant wines of identity and class.
Nowhere demonstrates the state of the Northern Rhône better than St Joseph. In the original parts of the region, in the south around Mauves, Tournon and St Jean de Muzols there is some exceptional terroir and a whole host of budding young vignerons attempting to get the best out of it. Yet the wines are not well-known and are under-valued as a result - partially because of St Joseph’s confusing and over-stretched vineyard expansion, partly because of the Rhône becoming unfashionable. Happy days, at least, for those who like drinking stylish wines of spirit and a sense of place without breaking the bank. The situation is astonishing, really, considering the small production and high level of quality being attained. We don’t think it can stay this underappreciated for long.
Read MoreOur personal favourite of this fledgling crop of winemakers is Bastien Jolivet. His 9ha are prime vineyards located on the steep, high east and south-east facing granite slopes of one of the original St Joseph communes, St Jean de Muzols. Bastien’s father always worked the land and produced the crop only to sell it to the local cooperative. After travelling and working within France and abroad, Bastien finally returned home to the family domaine in 2014, his first vintage. Intelligent and passionate about what he does, Bastien is already making startlingly brilliant wines that mix precision and energy with authenticity and character. The winemaking is thoughtful, light-handed and adaptive. A percentage of whole bunches is employed during vinification depending on the plot, vine age and vintage. For young vines grapes are de-stalked. Ageing is for 14-16 months in a mixture of barriques and larger demi-muids, of which rarely more than 10-15% are new. A great domaine of the future.
His 2016 was the result of a late vintage, Bastien starting picking his St Joseph grapes around the middle of October. The wine shows nerve and vitality yet also offers density and depth. Sensual, with fine tannins giving sinew to the beautifully pure autumnal red and dark berry fruit. A granitic salty kick brings interest, focus and freshness to the elegant and lifting finish. Incredibly persistent and easy to enjoy. Refinement and distinctive Rhône character wrapped together in perfect harmony.