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“A Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse” – Antonio Galloni
20 September 2021

Today sees the release of the hotly anticipated Clos des Goisses 2012; riding a wave of interest not seen since 2008, the 2012 vintage has established itself as the most exciting of Champagne releases in recent years, with many suggesting that the wines actually possess a refinement and finesse in their youth that even the brilliant, but more austere, 2008s couldn’t muster. As is often the case though, the best years are not necessarily the most generous, and in this instance, Clos des Goisses production was in line with 2011 at just 13,000bts - positively miniscule in the context of prestige cuvees. When we tasted it last week we were smitten by its composure, its intensity, and beautifully detailed citrus, floral, berried and velvety, savoury notes. Fermented in third-use ex-Meursault barrels and eventually disgorged in April 2021, the 2012 is a fundamentally stunning offering. With a faint grip and sense of power on the finish, this is a single-vineyard Champagne with everything in place to sit alongside the finest expressions in Philipponnat’s long and fabled history.

The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. – 97pts, Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

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