A delicious summer white from Claudio Gini

A delicious summer white from Claudio Gini
Today we set our Gini free! For far too long they, and Soave Classico producers in general, have been constrained by generic Soave DO producers that aspire only to sheer volume. Classico though, from the propitious hillside terroirs, produces bright, shimmering beauties of detail and precision that rank among Italy’s best white wines. What’s more, the best examples can be enjoyed young or old. Terms such as “long-ageing” and “Soave Classico” may not appear natural bedfellows to most wine drinkers, but celebrated producers such as Gini have always believed in the incredible potential of the Garganega grape. Through the good times and bad, they have stuck resolutely to principals of high quality, low yields and single vineyards. Huge retrospective tastings here are common place and Claudio Gini’s wines have become a reference point for this historic region. It may not be ten thousand years, but, in the words of the Genie from the lamp, twenty years in the doldrums is more than enough to give one a real “crick in the neck!”

A stroll to the top of La Frosca - one of the two undisputed Grand Cru vineyards in the denomination - provides a useful vantage point from which to see the swathes of low-lying, fertile vineyards that conspire to produce many an insipid Soave. La Frosca though is proper terroir; rocky volcanic soil, an average vine age of ninety years and, moreover, 180m of elevation with a perfect south east exposure, which ensures warm days and cold nights. This results in a fresh saline and mineral profile rarely found in Soave Classico. In fact, that fresh mineral character is even more present than usual in the cooler 2014 vintage, where a clear sense of drive and definition buttresses signature flavours of vibrant white stone fruit, ripe lemons and jasmine. Aged in a combination of steel and used oak barrels, it is matured for a total of three years prior to release, and a recent bottle confirmed that it is absolutely stunning now. At just over £16.00 per bottle on your table, we recommend it without hesitation.