Grattamacco was the second winery to be founded in Bolgheri in 1977 after Tenuta San Guido of Sassicaia fame. The 14 hectares of organically farmed vineyard are situated on top of a hill, facing the sea, between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri - 100m above sea level. This unusually high altitude, for Bolgheri at least, and its inland location means that this part of the region is windier and less humid. Ordinarily Sangiovese cannot grow in Bolgheri due to it being very sensitive to humid conditions, however, in Grattamacco’s micro climate it thrives. This is therefore one of the rare wines from the Tuscan coast to have any Sangiovese in it, to the tune of 15%, adding verve to the 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot.
This latest release, 2016, rates as one of their finest ever vintages. A modern classic that goes shoulder to shoulder with anything they have hitherto produced. Head winemaker, Luca Marrone (who has also been overseeing a recent purple patch for famed Montalcino estate Poggio di Sotto) is on fire at the moment. The second oldest estate in the region has been flying under the radar for some years now, but with the form Luca and his team are in this cannot last for long. Pricing has not risen as quickly as quality, making this not only one of the region’s great wines but also one of its best values. The 2016 paints a warm, inviting but quite classical picture. A beautiful mixture of Mediterranean sun, fruit and herbs wrapped in a classically Cabernet structure. Add in the underlying freshness and sapidity that Sangiovese brings and you have a very compelling wine indeed.
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