Reminiscent of Coche-Dury
Le Vicomte Liger Belair has rapidly established himself amongst the wine-making greats of Burgundy. His wines transcend comparison. Those lucky enough to regularly taste his creations know that ethereal style that is uniquely Liger-Belair. The meteoric rise of the estate is quite staggering, and now he is making some big waves the other side of the Atlantic at his joint venture in Cachapoal.
Louis-Michel’s talent with Pinot Noir is universally acknowledged. Until the 2012 release of the Nuits St Georges Blanc, Clos des Grandes Vignes, his prowess with Chardonnay was relatively unknown. But, it should come to now surprise that his exploits with this variety are also utterly spellbinding. In only the third vintage of Duquesa d’A, The Wine Advocate is promoting comparisons with non-other that Coche-Dury! This really is a deeply impressive, nuanced, textured Chardonnay that offers Cote de Beaune complexity and vitality with a touch of South American exoticism and unctuousness.
‘The 2009 Duquesa d’A is Chardonnay produced with grapes grown at 1,100 meters altitude in Alto Cachapoal, where the soils have stones and calcium carbonate. The must is fermented in French oak and the wine is put through full malolactic, but astonishingly it has no lactic aromas whatsoever. When I first put my nose in the glass, there was a name that came to my mind: Coche-Dury. That, in my book, is not a bad way to start. It has aromas of toasted sesame seeds, lees and yeasts, with citric notes, yellow plums, Macadamia nuts and a chalky minerality. The palate is full-bodied, round and powerful, with very good acidity, and very good persistence and length. 3,000 bottles were produced. Great Chardonnay! Drink 2014-2020. 93/100’. – The Wine Advocate #213
‘The 2009 Duque d’A is produced from Cabernet Sauvignon planted at 900 meters altitude, probably the highest Cabernet planting in Chile, on soils of volcanic gravels with calcareous components. There is an amplified sense of brightness in the fruit, with intense spiciness and floral aromas, a little wild with blue fruit and perfectly integrated wood (especially because in these first vintages they had to use new wood). The palate is medium to full-bodied, but they changed the plots used to absorb the effect of the warmer 2009 compared with the 2008. The tannins are round, they have the softness of the Malbec rather than the typical Cabernet, with great acidity, precision and length, perfectly focused. There are 3,000 bottles of this personality-laden Cabernet that talks much more about the place than the variety. Drink now-2019. 94/100’. – The Wine Advocate #213