Beaune is a broad and diverse appellation, both in terms of style and quality and as such is rarely thrust into the limelight. Every now and then, however, we come across a wine that reminds us how great this underrated village can be and of its potential to produce some of Burgundy’s very finest reds. Tasting examples like this, we wonder for how much longer Beaune’s secret can be kept.
The Trois Journaux is a beautifully situated mid-slope plot in Beaune Greves where the soil is poor, limestone- influenced with a gravely and sandy texture. The latter part of the name refers to an old measurement that one horse could work in a day, 0.33ha, three of which make up the 0.99 ha that comprises Chateau de Meursault’s holding. For the first time in 2015 the Château decided to vinify, age and bottle their Trois Journaux cuvée separately - hopefully it will be the first of many... We fell immediately for its charm and exquisite fruit. More distinguished and suave than the regular Beaune Greves, this offers a sensuality and immediacy that belies its complexity. Seductive straightaway with floral notes of sweet griotte and damson fruit, but give it a few years, or a few hours in a decanter, and it will transcend - time and aeration allowing the wine’s intricacies to rise to the silky surface. Beautifully measured, sweetly fruited and with a counterbalancing earthiness and spice coming to the fore with air - we struggle to think of a better value 1er Cru Red Burgundy in the Cote d’Or.
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“The 2015 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves "Trois Journaux" comes from the center of the vineyard, which tends to produce superior fruit (unfortunately it has been hailed for the previous vintages)/ Matured in 35% new oak, it has an intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, sage and flinty scents that are very well defined and entwined with the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannin, almost Vosne-Romanée in style, sensual with very pure black cherry and cassis fruit towards the elegant finish. This is top class and I anticipate it falling at the top of my banded score. 91-93 points”